Stew
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. herbes de Provence
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
6 oil-packed anchovy fillets
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 medium leeks, white and pale green parts only, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced into half-moons
6 celery stalks, sliced crosswise ½” thick
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Kosher salt, finely ground pepper
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
2 cups dry white wine
1 lb. butternut squash, peeled, seeds removed, cut into 1½” cubes
1 lb. rutabaga or kohlrabi, peeled, cut into 1½” cubes
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes (4–5 medium), scrubbed, cut into 1½” cubes
1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes
4 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
1 lb. smoked trout or whitefish, skin and bones removed, flesh broken into pieces
Dumplings and Assembly
1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour
1 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about ½ cup)
1 Tbsp. sugar
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly ground pepper
½ tsp. caraway seeds
2 Tbsp. chopped dill, plus more for serving
1¼ cups buttermilk