In my neck of the woods (the coniferous wonderland that is the Pacific Northwest), when you find freshly steamed Dungeness crabs, the best way to savor their sweet, ocean-kissed flesh is quite simple: armed with a cracker and a pick and a healthy supply of drawn butter, lemon wedges, and maybe a ramekin of cocktail sauce, or a bottle of fermented hot sauce. They’re a pricey splurge on par with live lobsters and dry-aged steaks, and the preciousness of Dungeness practically demands a spartan approach. Picking a pricey crab to make cakes (delicious though they may be) seems like a time-consuming absurdity.
Of course, finding live Dungeness changes the game entirely. Dishes like chili crab and cioppino are perfect ways to celebrate this rare occurrence, as cutting up and simmering the crustacean in a flavorful broth or sauce results in a dish that feels worthy of the expenditure. The crab’s shell and juices flavor the cooking liquid, and the cooking liquid seasons the crabmeat (if you lightly crack each claw and limb to permit this magical intermingling).
Sweet, savory blue crabs are a completely different—but no less special—ingredient, which Serious Eats editorial director Daniel Gritzer has exhaustively covered in his recipes(his mom was a Maryland native and he’s an honorary Marylander, as least as far as crabs are concerned). Whether you’re planning on a big, messy crab feast or preparing an elegant dinner of sautéed soft-shell crab for two, we’ve got you covered.
Finally, for those of you starting with picked crabmeat, we have plenty of delicious ideas for how to make the most of it, from crab cakes and puffs to molten, breadcrumb-topped dips and spicy vodka-spiked pasta.