The Celebratory Indian Meal I Make When I’m Homesick

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Why It Works

  • Soaking the dal for at least three hours guarantees that the beans will  be soft and creamy when cooked.
  • Cooking the pulses until they are soft and falling apart releases their starches into the dal, helping to thicken it.
  • Butter and heavy cream give the dal makhani its signature richness.

The Indian chef Kundan Lal Gujral is widely known as the reported inventor of  butter chicken, but what many don’t know is that he is also supposedly the culinary genius behind dal makhani—a deliciously luxurious dish of black gram, kidney beans, and spices simmered with cream and butter. In India, the dish is typically eaten at restaurants or during celebrations like weddings or birthdays.

Like butter chicken, dal makhani is rich, creamy, and deeply spiced. Gujral’s idea was to take urad dal—a simple, rustic black pulse that features heavily in Punjabi cooking—and elevate it by slowly cooking the pulses with butter and cream. The result is a rich, comforting meal fragrant with coriander, cumin, and garam masala.

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Because dal makhani is typically reserved for restaurant meals and celebrations, it’s not something my mother makes at home—nor is it something my family taught me to prepare. When I moved to New York from Mumbai in 2014, it was difficult to find dal makhani that I was satisfied with. I came across many restaurant versions that were too sweet or had too much cream, with the flavors of the spices muted. Underwhelmed by the available options near me, I decided to come up with my own recipe for dal makhani. The version below has everything I love about dal makhani: It’s fragrant with plenty of ginger, garlic, coriander, cumin, and garam masala, has savory depth from tomatoes, and has just the right amount of creaminess. 

What Is Urad Dal?

Urad dal, or black gram, are often mistaken for black lentils. Though they may look similar to lentils, urad dal refers to whole skin-on black gram. The beans are small and round, and have a creamy interior when cooked. Urad dal maintains its shape when slow-cooked, giving dal makhani its hearty texture. True black lentils, on the other hand, may refer to Beluga lentils, which are similar in appearance but differ in flavor and texture; they cook much faster and are firmer than black gram, and lack the creaminess of urad dal.

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The Key Techniques to Making Restaurant-Quality Dal Makhani at Home

  1. Soak the beans. Soaking urad dal is an essential step when making dal makhani. First, soaking softens the tough outer skin of the pulses and reduces the overall cooking time while also helping the beans cook more evenly. Soaking is particularly important for achieving the creamy, smooth texture that dal makhani is known for. Additionally, soaking makes the dal easier to digest.
  2. Simmer until creamy. Slow cooking urad dal is essential and gives the dal its velvety texture. As the gram cooks, it breaks down slightly, releasing its starches into the liquid for a thick, creamy consistency. Slow cooking also allows the flavors to meld, and results in a flavorful, deeply spiced dish.
  3. Don’t skip the dairy. Dal makhani’s signature creaminess comes not just from the dal itself, but also from the generous addition of butter and cream, which are slowly simmered with the pulses to create a luxurious, melt-in-your-mouth feel. Though there are many dairy-free substitutes for butter and cream, I haven’t tried it myself and personally can’t guarantee that the recipe will work—or be just as delicious—with dairy-free substitutes.

  4. The spices are essential. Cumin, coriander, garam masala, and a hint of chile powder are the key spices that give the dish its depth and warmth. These spices are carefully balanced to create a dish that is mildly spiced yet intensely flavorful. Tomatoes bring a subtle tanginess that cuts through the richness of the butter and cream, adding a layer of complexity to the dish. While dal makhani has a rich, creamy base, the combination of spices ensures that it never feels overly heavy.

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How to Serve Dal Makhani

Dal makhani is often enjoyed with warm, fluffy naan or jeera rice (rice with cumin seeds), both of which perfectly complement its creamy texture and robust flavors. But if you have neither, not to worry—it’s also delicious on its own or with a slice of toast. A final addition of fresh cream and a dollop of butter just before serving enhances dal makhani’s signature richness. Make it for a special occasion or on a weeknight to turn a ho-hum day into a special occasion.

The Celebratory Indian Meal I Make When I’m Homesick



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For the Ginger and Garlic Paste:

  • One 2-inch piece ginger (about 1 ounce; 30g), peeled

  • 6 medium cloves garlic (1 ounce; 30g), peeled

For the Dal:

  • 1 cup dried black urad dal (8 ounces; 226g), rinsed and drained

  • 1/3 cup dried rajma or red kidney beans (2 1/2 ounces; 70g)

  • 1 dried bay leaf

  • 6 tablespoons (90ml) vegetable oil

  • 2 teaspoons ginger and garlic paste (see above)

  • 2 tablespoons (16g) Kashmiri red chile powder

  • 1 tablespoon (7g) ground coriander

  • 1 tablespoon (8g) ground cumin

  • 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes (see notes)

  • 1/2 teaspoon garam masala

  • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt, divided; for table salt, use half as much by volume

  • 1/2 cup (120ml) heavy cream

  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter (about 1 ounce; 28g), plus more to top

  1. For the Ginger and Garlic Paste: Using a small food processor, purée ginger, garlic, and 1 tablespoon (15ml) water until a smooth paste forms, about 2 minutes. Alternatively, using a mortar and pestle, pound ginger and garlic to form a smooth paste; transfer to a small bowl and stir in 1 tablespoon (15ml) water. Set aside.   

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  2. For the Dal: In a large bowl, combine black urad dal and beans and cover by 2 inches with cool water. Soak for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours. Using your hands, vigorously swish dal and beans until water turns cloudy, about 30 seconds. Using a fine-mesh strainer, drain pulses, discarding the cloudy water.

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  3. In a medium pot or Dutch oven, combine dal, beans, bay leaf, 2 quarts (1.9L) water, and 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, checking occasionally to skim any foam that collects at the top, until dal and beans are soft and break apart easily when pressed between your fingers, about 45 minutes. Once cooked, there should be about 1 inch of water above dal and beans; if water exceeds 1 inch, remove excess water with a ladle until remaining water just covers dal and beans by about 1 inch. Discard. Using a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon, mash 1/3 of the mixture.

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  4. In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add ginger and garlic paste and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add chile powder, coriander, cumin, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook until mixture darkens slightly and oil begins to separate, 4 to 6 minutes.

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  5. Add spiced tomato mixture to cooked dal and stir to combine. Bring to a simmer and season to taste with salt. Stir in heavy cream and garam masala and simmer until mixture begins to thicken, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons butter. Serve immediately with steamed white rice, roti, or as an accompaniment to any Indian meal, and top with additional butter, if desired. 

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Make-Ahead and Storage

The dal makhani can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days and frozen for up to 1 month. To thaw, let sit in refrigerator overnight. 

Notes

Do not substitute urad dal with black lentils. 

4 tablespoons (84g) of store-bought ginger and garlic paste can be used in place of freshly made paste in step 4. 

To use fresh tomatoes instead of canned, use a food processor or immersion blender to purée 3 medium ripe plum tomatoes and use in place of 1 cup canned diced tomatoes.

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