What is the best area for eating and drinking in Paris?
Paris is split up into 20 arrondissements (districts), and the standard is generally high throughout. Montmartre, in the 18th arrondissement, is up in the hilly cobbled streets around the Sacre-Coeur and is fantastic for a taste of traditional Paris; there are also a host of excellent, well-known restaurants around Le Marais (around the 3rd and 4th). But for consistently great food in independent kitchens and popular, intimate restaurants, we’d suggest heading east, specifically the 11th, 10th and 3rd arrondissements.
Best places to eat in Paris
La Buvette
This tiny cave à manger – a wine bar that serves small plates while you drink – has become such a firm favourite since it opened in 2012 that there’s even now a cookbook of the same name, so customers can recreate some of Camille Fourmont’s signature offerings at home. ‘Delicious picky bits’ is probably the best way to describe the food here – anchovies, terrine, homemade pickles and butter beans in olive oil with lemon zest (their signature dish at €6.50); paired with a glass of minerally Pet Nat, it makes a perfect starting point for an evening out.
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67 Rue Saint-Maur, 11th arrondissement
Labuvette.paris
Cafe Du Coin
This unassuming restaurant – meaning ‘cafe on the corner’ – shot to fame when the New York Times included it in 2019 as part of its affordable dining renaissance in Paris feature. We’re pleased to report that it still fits that bill, offering a €20 set-lunch, or easy-on-the-pocket à la carte choices for later in the day. We stumbled upon this place when we were looking for lunch on a Sunday (lots of restaurants are shut in Paris on Sundays and Mondays) and were struck by its charm as we tucked into a succession of small plates like tuna tartare, taramasalata with radishes and sumac, and tasty cacio e pepe pizzettes.
9 Rue Camille Desmoulins, 11th arrondissement
instagram.com/cafe_du_coin
Bouillon Pigalle
There are a couple of Bouillon restaurants around Paris, one in the more central Republique, but for anyone doing a bit of sightseeing around the Sacre-Coeur or the Moulin Rouge, Bouillon Pigalle is the place to book. The basic idea has been around since the 1800s – a cheap, tasty place for workers to eat at – and that essentially remains the premise today. With starters from just €2.50 (the egg mayonnaise) and a solid steak frites with pepper sauce at €12.60, you’ll have more to spend on their great table wines, which start at €3.60 a glass. We also found this was a great place for families, with kids always happy to tuck into chicken and chips (€9.80) when there’s a promise of chocolate mousse afterwards (€3.90).
22 Bd de Clichy, 18th
bouillonlesite.com
Chez Paul
A contender for one of the oldest restaurants on this list, having been open pretty much every day since 1900, it feels like not a lot has changed over the years at Chez Paul – and that’s a good thing. We’d recommend stopping here for lunch, as their three-course lunch menu is just €23, and boasts hearty and often meaty French fare. Starters might include rabbit rillettes or leek vinaigrette, with mains of steak with bearnaise sauce, duck confit or, for the more adventurous, veal’s head and brains in a gribiche sauce. This is traditional, homemade French food at its most satisfying.
13 Rue de Charonne, 11th
chezpaul.com
Le Bistrot Paul Bert
Not to be confused with Chez Paul, Le Bistrot Paul Bert nonetheless knocks it out of the park. The menu at this classic bistro is scribbled on a blackboard to peruse as others sit down for dinner in the traditional yet buzzy dining room. It’s an old-school vibe here, and very popular among those looking for that archetypal steak frites and red wine night in the city (a three-course meal costs €41); given the cosy candlelit ambience, we’d be inclined to join them.
18 Rue Paul Bert, 11th
bistrotpaulbert.fr
Terminus Nord
It’s a common question: you’ve got an hour or two to kill before your Eurostar home, so where’s the best place to eat near Gare Du Nord? Our pick is always the ever-reliable Terminus Nord, especially if you want to spend the last of your euros on a seafood platter. Their fruits de mer platters – ranging from €24 to €145 – are fantastic, and the wine is much better than anything you’ll pick up across the road in duty free. Yes, this brasserie is normally packed and the service can be brusque, but the payoff is always worth it.
23 Rue de Dunkerque, 10th arrondissement
terminusnord.com
Du Pain et Des Idées
So, where can the best croissant in Paris be found? In our opinion – and in the opinion of the late Anthony Bourdain too, for this bakery featured on his The Layover series – Du Pain et Des Idées takes the top spot. It opened in 1875, and there’s often a long queue from early morning, but it’s worth the wait. Go traditional with a croissant, or branch out and try the chocolate and pistachio swirl (‘escargot’, in French), which you can pick up for less than €4 each.
34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th
dupainetdesidees.com
Brasserie Martin
Kitsch is the name of the game here, and if you’re a fan of London restaurants like Circolo Popolare or Gloria, you’ll also enjoy this fun brasserie. Spot it from the street with its red-and-white striped canopies – extra points if you can find the roast chicken stained glass window above; inside it’s a joyous cacophony of colourful decor and crockery. Brasserie Martin is renowned for its rotisserie, as the ornate window implies, and a whole roast chicken for two is €17 per person, or a side of pork is €24, and both can be served with potatoes dauphinoise or French fries.
24 Rue Saint-Ambroise, 11th
lanouvellegarde.com/brasserie-martin
Ai Hsu
Tucked away on a side street, just minutes from popular shopping destinations like Merci, this small, yellow-fronted cafe is a must-visit for lunch. It makes a welcome break from the busy nearby streets, with the food a pleasing fusion of Taiwanese and Japanese dishes, like the filling chirashi, a mixed bowl of sushi-like joy for €18, or the fragrant cold sesame noodles, served with pickles, salad and wakame. Don’t scrimp on the sides either – and wash it all down with an iced oolong tea.
16 Rue Saint-Sébastien, 11th
facebook.com/aihsu75011
Benoit
As of 2024, there are 121 restaurants in Paris with a Michelin star, and Benoit is a classy choice to start working your way through them. It’s been serving up Lyon-style bistro food since 1912 and, now under the watchful eye of Alain Ducasse, is as popular as ever. Full of vintage charm – who doesn’t love a restaurant with their name branded on the crockery? – Benoit’s three-course lunch menu comes in at a very reasonable €42. Make sure you leave room for dessert: the signature profiteroles with their ultra-rich chocolate sauce are the last word in indulgence.
20 Rue Saint-Martin, 4th
benoit-paris.com
Les Enfants Du Marché
A stall in Paris’s oldest market is probably not the first place you’d think of visiting for a stellar lunch but, nestled in the corner of the Marché des Enfants Rouge, Les Enfants Du Marche is a casual, no-reservations spot incredibly popular with in-the-know foodies, as well as a favourite for off-duty chefs. If you’re lucky enough to find a spot by the small counter, expect seasonal small plates and daily delights from chef Shunta Suzuki, scrawled on the blackboards hanging from the bar top. It’s kind of meat-heavy – a recent visit offered pigs feet (€24), grilled blood sausage and squid (€28) and côte de boeuf to share at the day’s market price – but everything is delivered in a modern, innovative and often delicate manner.
Marché des, 39 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd
lesenfantsdumarche.fr
BMK Paris-Bamako
If there was a food Olympics in Paris, this sunny spot could well take the African cuisine gold. The warmth of signature dishes such as chicken mafé (made according to the chef’s mum’s recipe, €15), a lemony Senegalese yassa, and a Malian thieboudienne (€18), is matched by the warmth of the restaurant staff, who make sure that every dining experience here is a joy.
14 rue de la Fidélité, 10th
bmkparis.com/decouvrez-bmk-parisbamako
Robert et Louise
Should you get lost in the streets of the Marais trying to find this restaurant, simply follow your nose: the inviting smell of smoke from the wood fire will guide you there. Robert et Louise has been firing up the grill in its old-fashioned restaurant since 1968. Come hungry, and preferably in a group, as hearty offerings of côte de boeuf (€64) are made for sharing, with a veritable butcher’s counter of sausages (from €9) as a pork chaser. Don’t skip the cheese course, with six classic cheeses on offer – and it’d be rude not to pair it all with a bottle of the solid house red.
64 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
robertetlouise.com
Tekés
Also making good use of an open wood grill – this time purely with vegetables – is Tekés, where the focus is on elevating plant-based dishes through traditional cooking methods. Put simply, it’s delicious plates of flavour-packed veggies that will sate even the most carnivorous of guests. The restaurant has recently launched a Middle Eastern brunch for those looking for a spicier start to the weekend: the €60 brunch buffet boasts everything from hummus and tabbouleh to paprika-roasted cauliflower and shakshuka – and save room for a sweet slice of chocolate babka to finish.
4 bis Rue Saint-Sauveur, 2nd
tekesrestaurant.com
Septime
There’s plenty of buzz around this intimate restaurant, and for good reason. Chef Bertrand Grébaut’s venture has been on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for quite some time now, and since 2017 it’s also been picking up awards for its sustainability credentials. You know the drill – it’s almost impossible to get a seat, even though reservations open three weeks in advance. But should the food gods be shining down on you, a dream dining situation lies ahead. The menu is brief: the lunchtime 5-course tasting menu is €85, the evening 7-course tasting menu is €135, so get ready to enjoy the show. Tip: if getting through the door is impossible, try their seafood-focused sister restaurant, Clamato, next door instead.
80 Rue de Charonne, 11th
septime-charonne.fr
Le Tagine
Le Tagine has been celebrating the best of Moroccan cuisine for more than 40 years, and the colourful, cosy restaurant is just the tonic when grey skies and rain hit the capital. The signature dish is of course tagine, with chicken, lamb and salmon tagines from €25 each, to be mopped up with big spoonfuls of herbed couscous. If there’s room, check out their pastillas, or even better, grab a few to take away and enjoy on the go later.
13 Rue de Crussol, 11th
letagine-restaurant.com
Sur Mer
A restaurant so cosy it’s almost as if you’re sat at chef Olive Davoux’s home dining table. What the turquoise-fronted Sur Mer excels at is, as you might have guessed, seafood. Davoux has been shucking shells at this busy spot since 2017, so pull up a chair and order some of the catch of the day. There’s always a selection of oysters on offer, usually starting from about €9 for 3; then there are some exciting and fresh takes on other crustaceans, such as steamed clams with hibiscus vinegar, or monkfish liver terrine with pickled rhubarb and mustard leaves.
53 Rue de Lancry, 10th
surmer.restaurant
Le Train Bleu
Want to push the boat out for a celebration? The 120-year-old Le Train Bleu is the place for you. It’s set in the city’s Gare Du Lyon station, and sitting down at the table is jaw-dropping, with ceiling frescos, chandeliers and cherubs galore. The à la carte menu is pricey – around €40 for a main course, such as cod loin or roast leg of lamb – but there is a two-course set meal for €55, which, given the opulent surroundings, feels like decent value for such decadence.
Gare de Lyon, Pl. Louis Armand hall 1, 12th
le-train-bleu.com
Bouillon Julien
If it’s opulence on more of a budget you’re after, check out Bouillon Julien. Decorated in an Art Nouveau-style – think stained glass, mirrored ceilings, celadon green-washed murals and a mahogany bar – this brasserie oozes grandeur, and yet the cheapest dish on the menu (pea soup) is a euro-busting €3.90. Follow that with chicken supreme for just €12.80 or pan-fried sea bream at €13.60 and, in one of the most expensive cities in the world, you’ll feel like you gamed the system – and in style.
16 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 10th
bouillon-julien.com
Angelina
Speciality coffee shops and bubble tea spots may have popped up all over Paris in the past few years, but Angelina’s is without doubt one of the best places for a hot chocolate in Paris, especially if you’re visiting museums like the Louvre nearby. This luxurious, indulgent tearoom has been open more than 120 years, and its hot chocolate, poured out from a little jug and topped with lashings of whipped cream, comes at the equally indulgent price of €8.90. Breakfast and brunch here is also lovely for a special occasion, but if you don’t want to queue to eat in – or you want to save a few euros – you can always take away, and enjoy the chocolaty treat, or one of their equally great eclairs or macarons, on a bench in the Jardin des Tuileries opposite.
226 Rue de Rivoli, 1st
angelina-paris.fr
Best bars in Paris
Bambino
For a bar cooler than Serge Gainsbourg on a winter’s day, head to Bambino, nestled in the heart of the 11th. It’s all mid-century and expensive candle vibes here, and while you might want to stop for a dinner of pizzettes and small plates, we’d recommend heading here in the later hours instead. The music picks up, there’s dancing and things start to get a little jazzy after one of their chic €12 cocktails on tap.
25 Rue Saint-Sébastien, 11th
bambinoparis.com
Le Très Particulier
Entering via the side of a stately manner in a fairly residential Montmartre neighbourhood feels like you’ve been let in on a special secret – and that’s before you’ve even caught a glimpse of the spectacular bar at the back of L’Hôtel Particulier. By day, the lavishly decorated space looks out into the impressive garden; by night, the cosy velvet- and gold-furnished cocktail bar could double as a fancy members’ club. Just don’t tell too many people…
23 Avenue Junot, Pavillon D, 18th
hotelparticulier.com
Le Perchoir Ménilmontant
Up on the 7th floor, summery Mediterranean-style hangout Le Perchoir is one of Paris’s best rooftop bars. It has incredible 360-degree views, and if the weather’s on your side, a sundowner here – a glass of rosé starts at €7 – while the sun sets over the famous skyline will likely be one of the most magical moments of your trip.
14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 11th
leperchoir.fr
Rosa Bonheur
The charming Buttes Chaumont park in the north-east of the city is worth a visit in itself, but even more so for the cute bar at its centre. It’s a super-relaxed spot that comes alive on lazy summer days – and evenings – and with nature surrounding you, it really feels like la vie en rose.
Parc des Buttes Chaumont, 1 rue de Botzaris, 19th
rosabonheur.fr
Café de l’Homme
There’s one huge, grey metal reason why the sophisticated Café de l’Homme gets a place on our must-visit list, and that’s the unparalleled view of the Eiffel Tower from its terrace. It’s one of the best places in Paris to see and snap the famous monument from; drinks are naturally a little pricey here, and make sure you arrive on the hour in the evening to get your money’s worth and experience the Iron Lady in all her glory.
17 Pl. du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 16th
cafedelhomme.com
The Cambridge
What’s this, an English-looking pub in Paris? Stay with us: this is like if some cool Parisians took over your local and injected it with a bit of French flair. The relaxed and comfortable bar spills out onto the street in summer, but the real draw here is the imaginative seasonal cocktails. A recent trip saw us thirsty for another round of Akira Kiras (€14); an elegant fusion of grapefruit, sencha tea, vodka and Lillet Blanc. Plus, they’re one of the few places in Paris to serve up Scotch eggs.
8 Rue de Poitou, 3rd
thecambridge.paris
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