Every morning, when my mom was a child, my Lolo and Lola would pack produce from the farm into large woven baskets, load them onto tricycles—sometimes one, sometimes three, depending on the harvest—and wheel off toward the market in Paniqui, spinning dust into the air. Together they’d sell the day’s goods, keeping an eye out for their suki (special repeat customers). The suki system is the foundation of Philippine market culture. It’s essentially an unspoken agreement between buyers and sellers, a form of loyalty that generates repeat customers and vendors you can count on. And my grandparents depended on it. On weekends, they would set up their market stall even earlier. Once their bounty sold, my Lola switched from suki seller to suki buyer (the term applies to both parties). Before returning home, she’d pick up pasalubong (gifts) for the kids. Usually something sweet. Usually, shakoy—a twisted yeast doughnut dusted with shimmering sugar.
I make mine with bread flour for an extra downy chew. Each plush braid wears a veil of satiny maple icing and a generous shower of crispy golden sprinkles, courtesy of fried, finely chopped Spam (a tenured staple of my pantry). For me, it’s the best alliance of sweet and salty.
This recipe was excerpted from ‘Sugarcane’ by Arlyn Osborne. Buy the full book on Amazon.